Base Loading
Coil at the bottom, whip on top. This is how most tripod whip-and-coil kits work. It's easy to reach the taps, but the coil carries the most current, so coil losses matter most.
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A 17-foot whip can work 40 and 80 meters if you add the right coil. How loading works, how many turns to wind on a piece of PVC, where to tap it, and how to get it tuned at the park.
A quarter-wave vertical on 40 m is 33 ft tall. Make it shorter and it acts like a capacitor, so it won't take power. A coil adds the "missing" length back electrically. The antenna still radiates, just less efficiently than a full-size one.
Coil at the bottom, whip on top. This is how most tripod whip-and-coil kits work. It's easy to reach the taps, but the coil carries the most current, so coil losses matter most.
Coil partway up, with mast below and whip above. The current stays high along the bottom section, so it radiates better. It needs a bigger coil and is harder to tap in the field. Buddistick-style antennas work this way.
Spokes or wires at the top of the whip act as extra capacity. You need fewer coil turns and get better efficiency. On a whip, even 3–4 short wires splayed at the top help on 80 m.
The shorter the antenna is compared with a quarter wave, the smaller its radiation resistance. Coil and ground losses then eat a bigger share of your power. That's why a whip is great on 20 m, fine on 40 m, and a challenge on 80 m.
A coil's "Q" is how little power it wastes. Fat wire, spaced turns and a big diameter all mean high Q. A good homebrew coil on 2" PVC can match or beat many commercial ones.
Every vertical works against the ground under it. A couple of radials on wet grass can waste more power than the coil does. More radials is the cheapest upgrade there is.
Tell it your whip and your coil form. It works out the inductance you need, how many turns to wind, where to tap each band, and a rough efficiency.
Base-loaded (coil at the bottom): set the mast to 0. Center-loaded: put the coil height here.
Turns counted from the bottom of the coil, with the same whip on every band.
| BAND | INDUCTANCE | TAP AT TURN | COIL LENGTH | ROUGH EFFICIENCY |
|---|
Wind a few more turns than the lowest band needs. These are starting points: fine-tune with the whip length. Very short coils (just a few turns) are the least exact, so expect to move the clip a turn either way.
An evening project: a piece of white PVC, some copper wire, two end caps and standard 3/8-24 antenna hardware.
The clip lead comes from the top (whip) end and shorts out every turn above the clip. Only the turns below it are working. Clip higher for more turns (lower bands) and lower for fewer turns (higher bands). On 20 m and up you may need no coil at all.
An antenna analyzer or NanoVNA makes this a two-minute job. With just the radio's SWR meter, it takes a little longer but works the same way.
A short vertical over good radials can have a feedpoint resistance well under 50 Ω, for example 20–30 Ω on 40 m. Then even perfect tuning leaves SWR around 2:1. That's actually a sign of low loss. Fixes:
If SWR is 1:1 on every band without tuning, something is soaking up the power (bad connection, lossy coax or poor ground).
The radial system is half the antenna. On a short loaded vertical it matters even more, because the feedpoint resistance is low.
Radials lying on the grass don't need to be resonant. 8–16 radials about as long as the antenna is tall is a great portable setup. Going from 2 to 8 radials makes a bigger difference than any coil.
Raise the base a few feet (on a tripod or a picnic table edge) and two radials cut to a quarter wave for the band work about as well as many on the ground. Slope them down slightly and keep the ends off the ground.
How many radials, and how long, on the ground or raised, for every band.
WIND IT. TAP IT. WORK 40 METERS FROM A WHIP.
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